NYFW: Alaïa’s Sculptural Elegance Meets American Sportswear at Guggenheim Show

Pieter Mulier, Alaïa‘s Creative Director, recently unveiled the brand’s Winter-Spring 2025 collection at an iconic New York venue, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. The decision to hold the show in this prestigious location stems from two factors: opportunity and a personal obsession. The opportunity came in the form of a rare chance to stage the event within the museum’s rotunda, and the obsession, as Mulier describes, is tied to his deep fascination with the concept of «American beauty.»

For Mulier, American beauty symbolizes freedom—both physical and spiritual. It’s a concept rooted in simplicity, modernity, and a straightforward approach to design. Mulier has a personal connection to the U.S., having lived and worked in New York for three years, a period that shaped him both creatively and personally. For Alaïa, New York is also a special place, as the late Azzedine Alaïa first made a name for himself in the city during the 1980s, where he launched his first store and held his debut fashion show in 1982.

The choice of the Guggenheim Museum holds further significance for the brand. Alaïa’s work was featured in a 2000 exhibition in the museum’s SoHo space, alongside the works of artist Andy Warhol, highlighting a unique dialogue between art and fashion.

Mulier emphasized that this collection was shaped by the context of showcasing it in an art museum, in the U.S. The designs reflect a distinct influence of American sportswear, embodying its practicality and relaxed aesthetic. The collection also pays homage to prominent American fashion figures such as Adrian, Halston, Charles James, and Claire McCardell, while maintaining the sculptural artistry that both Azzedine Alaïa and Mulier have long been known for.

The pieces in the collection feature striking geometric shapes—circles, squares, and spirals—crafted from luxurious materials like double-face cashmere, fine knits, poplin, and silk taffeta. Mulier strips the designs of traditional closures like zippers and buttons, opting for a minimalistic and dynamic simplicity. Some garments are even suspended by invisible internal structures, creating an almost magical effect.

This show is not just a presentation of clothing, but a tribute to the fusion of tradition and modernity, blending American fashion heritage with Alaïa’s signature style. In a nod to the future of fashion, Mulier also invited students from three renowned fashion schools—FIT, Parsons, and Pratt—to witness the event, offering them a glimpse into the evolving conversation between art and fashion.